Rethinking textiles: The potential of hemp

In view of increasing consumer demand for environmentally friendly alternatives to conventional materials, the textile industry is under pressure to adapt. Also in this sector, industrial hemp is proving to be a viable and sustainable solution.

Fibres derived from industrial hemp offer remarkable advantages over traditional rawmaterials/textiles such as cotton, which could mean a more sustainable future for the industry. So let's take a closer look.

Hemp - more than just a plant

Industrial hemp (Cannabis sativa) is cultivated specifically for its fibres and seeds, distinctly separate from cannabis grown for medical or recreational purposes. Crucially, industrial hemp contains less than 0.3% THC, the psychoactive compound that gives cannabis its intoxicating effects, making it unsuitable for recreational drug use.

Historically, hemp was highly valued for textiles, ropes, and sails, thanks to its remarkable durability. Its fibres were critical in shipping and trade, boosting economies around the world.

Additionally, hemp was prized for nutritional benefits and medical uses, such as treating inflammation and pain. However, political developments, notably the global prohibition of cannabis, significantly hampered hemp's cultivation, relegating it to obscurity.

Currently, hemp is experiencing a comeback. The plant thrives in a variety of conditions without the need for pesticides, herbicides or extensive irrigation. Its cultivation enriches the soil, actively binds CO₂ from the atmosphere and even provides a habitat for beneficial insects such as bees.

Its rapid growth and low environmental footprint have led the industry to reconsider hemp as a versatile and renewable resource for various products - including building materials, biofuels, bioplastics and indeed sustainable textiles.

What makes industrial hemp so special for the textile industry?

In the textile sector, hemp fibres have gained considerable attention. Here’s why:

Sustainability: Hemp thrives on different types of soil, requires little water and can be grown without pesticides or herbicides. This makes it a very sustainable plant for various reasons. In comparison to cotton, hemp uses significantly less water and requires less agricultural intervention, making it a more environmentally friendly alternative.

Strength and durability: Hemp yarn is remarkably strong and resilient. Its fibres are particularly durable and hard-wearing. In addition, fabrics woven from hemp are naturally dirt-repellent. As a result, garments and textiles made from hemp generally have a longer lifespan and retain their quality over a longer period of time. Hemp textiles are also suitable for industrial and agricultural applications due to their robustness.

Breathability and comfort: Hemp fibres have a hollow structure, which makes them naturally breathable and very good at absorbing moisture. This means that clothing made from hemp remains dry and comfortable even in warm temperatures, as the fibre can absorb around 30% of its own weight in moisture and quickly release it again. Thanks to this property, hemp yarn is particularly comfortable against the skin and is suitable for garments with direct contact as well as for medical bandages and nappies. Hemp clothing has a cooling effect in summer and keeps you warm in winter.

Antimicrobial properties: The natural antimicrobial properties of hemp fibres help to inhibit bacterial growth and reduce odours. As a result, hemp textiles stay fresh and hygienic for longer, even with intensive use.

Versatile applications: Hemp yarn can be used in a wide range of applications, from clothing and accessories to technical textiles and home textiles.

Cotton, which traditionally dominates textile production, has been criticised for its environmental impact. Its cultivation consumes large quantities of water and exacerbates the problems of water scarcity, particularly in arid regions. Cotton cultivation also involves the extensive use of pesticides and chemical fertilisers, which pollute water sources, damage ecosystems and affect human health.

As outlined above, hemp cultivation offers significant environmental benefits in comparison. Hemp's minimal water and chemical requirements significantly reduce its ecological footprint. Due to its rapid growth cycle and adaptability, it can be grown locally, reducing carbon emissions associated with transport.

Physical advantages of hemp fibre

While cotton fibres typically measure around two centimetres, hemp fibres can extend up to four metres in length. This extraordinary fibre length, combined with its strength—up to eight times greater than cotton—ensures hemp-based textiles are exceptionally durable and resilient.

Furthermore, hemp fibres are naturally resistant to pests, eliminating the need for chemical treatments. Unlike cotton, hemp fibres lack protein, preventing infestations by insects such as moths. Another notable benefit is hemp’s superior UV protection, absorbing up to 90% of harmful ultraviolet radiation compared to cotton’s modest 30–60%. This makes hemp ideal for protective clothing and outdoor textiles.

The market potential of hemp textiles

Industrial hemp could offer a truly sustainable and practical alternative for textile production. Its environmental benefits combined with its excellent physical properties make hemp fibres an increasingly attractive choice. With the ongoing consumer shift towards sustainability and global demand, hemp textiles provide significant commercial opportunities.

The numerous environmental and performance benefits of hemp are ideal for capturing a growing share. As awareness and appreciation of these sustainability benefits grows, so may the appeal of hemp to consumers and manufacturers alike.